Monday, January 31, 2011
I asked my husband this weekend if he would like me to teach him to sew. He answered no a bit quickly for my liking, and when I pressed him as to why he told me that he didn't have time nor would he know what to make. And why is a man traditionally called a tailor and a woman a seamstress? Do we say seamster? I've never used that term. I've read sewist a few times lately. Is that even a word? This week is dedicated to men who sew. I am looking forward to what I find out.
P.S. Anyone want to take a guess what kind of machine our statue tailor is sewing on? I may need to write to the artist to find out.
Friday, January 28, 2011
According to Richarde13 on Ebay, "The correct usage of the word vintage must be used with a year: ie. my car is vintage 2001... , this WWII item is vintage 1943... " In fact, vintage in the purest sense of the word refers to wine. When I write vintage sewing machine I am using the adjective form, meaning it is of or relating to a vintage: like it is the best of that group.
Is it wrong then to call a machine from the early to mid 20th century vintage? You tell me. I think it is not the correct use of the word, but it has become part of the vernacular. Ah, semantics... what will we mess up next!
Hope you enjoy the collage of 20th century beauties. Next week I am going to attempt to feature (brooding music cue) Men who Sew. I have some good stuff lined up, so stay tuned!
Links to the Machine Photos:
White and Orange Singer
Green Brother Overloque
Thursday, January 27, 2011
Tuesday, January 25, 2011
I love that there is a machine called a Minerva, which is the brand name, not the name of the machine itself. So what does it say about our collective sewing personalities that we name our machines and talk about them like they are human? In literature that is called personification -- or maybe it is pathetic fallacy -- I can't quite remember which is which -- but I still find it interesting that we think of our machines as our friends (or in some cases, enemies...)
It seems for many people, the choice of a name is derived from the brand name -- such as Bernie (for Bernina) or Vicky for a Viking. I have also read about lots of machines which (or is it who?) possess a name that conjures up a reliable farm animal or wise elder: think along the lines of 'Ol Betty or Aunt Bertha.
Here are a few links I found that discuss the habit of naming machines. Julia over at Serious Sewing calls her Singer 168 machine Matilda. There are seven pages of comments on naming machines on the quilters' message board. And it was one of the questions for the Sew Mama Sew Sewing Machine Meme: they asked if 'she' had a name - I wonder if there are any machines out there who are male...?
My dad had a car named Sad Bird. He had a little silver plaque engraved with the name on it that was set into the dashboard. Could be a business idea for someone, no? Maybe take over a corner of a trophy shop and market it to us nutty sewers? Let me know if you start it up!
Don't you wish there were some groovy machines to go along with these funky owners manuals? Well, I will have to search for those. I know there were some cute colorful toy machines, and I've certainly seen some groovy Bernina's. I will go exploring tomorrow -- I have to run over to the repair shop. Who knows, maybe I'll find a treasure to write about!
PS - there are great images of sewing manuals (which are for sale) over at Manuals on CD.
Monday, January 24, 2011
I learned to sew on a converted Singer treadle machine, meaning it had been converted in the 1920s or 30s from a foot pedal to a knee pedal. I loved sewing on that machine, but it was far from modern. Then sometime in 1977 I went shopping with my mother. We brought this fancy Kenmore 158 16250 home and embarked on a world filled with zig-zag stitches and blind hems! I still have this machine and have used it with my students. It is a solid, mechanical machine (remember this means all pullys and levers and gears and such) and my only complaint is that the tension knob seems to be useless.
I plan to scour the web for interesting vintage machines with stories attached. If you have one, send me an email! I hope to find some great stories about machines and their humans to blog about. I am looking forward to what else comes up in my quest.
Friday, January 21, 2011
I was out and about with Miyong, not shopping for sewing machines (although that is a bit of an oxymoron, because I always get in trouble when I shop with her!) and we saw the sign for Just Quilting. After a quick decision to go see what was there, we were deep into a conversation about longarm quilting with the two awesome gals who work there.
Let me back up a bit and admit that I have only ever made doll quilts with my students. I have never, ever made a quilt. I have always been intimidated by quilting, which is silly, because I've sewn everything else under the sun. Somehow the idea of committing to such a large and labor-intensive project that requires precision terrifies me. I am inspired by the modern quilt movement - and I love Denyse Schmidt's quilts and quilts of Gee's Bend - oh it is a vast world of quilting out there! But I digress...
Back to Pat's Just quilting. I asked her which was her favorite machine to sew on and she pointed me to her her Juki TL-98. She said it was perfect for sewing on quilt bindings and she was attached to it (See, I am not the only one who gets attached to my sewing machines!) The Juki TL-98Q is a lockstich machine, and I wasn't sure I knew what that meant. This warranted more research (okay, twist my arm!) and here is what I discovered: A lockstitch is a straight stitch. It is what was originally patented to commercialize the home sewing machines in the 1830s and is the fundamental mechanics for straight stitch sewing on machines to this day.
Good to know! Now off to plan my quilt design...
Thursday, January 20, 2011
When did you learn how to sew & what kind of machine did you first learn to sew on? I began sewing as a child on my grandmothers hand-me-down Singer. It was horrible. If I had access to a better machine, I would have been sewing much earlier. There were constant problems with tension, unthreading and more. It made sewing by hand easier than figuring out the machine, which really stalled my learning. After college, I borrowed a friends simple and inexpensive machine. After a little less (just a little mind you) frustration, I started taking some classes. I wanted to become a better sewer, and although I didn't know much, I knew there was a whole lot for me to learn.
I began taking classes in a great shop in Eugene, 27th Street Fabrics. I quickly discovered that Bernina's were truly wonderful machines, and bought one. I am the type of person who feels that if I am going to invest in something, a tool or learning experience, I would rather have a good one that I can depend on to work ever time and make learning fun. I can not tell you what a difference that machine made to my skills. That lovely Bernina 130, a handful of classes, and I was sewing for years and years! There wasn't access to great fabric or inspiring patterns, but I made due and mostly just kept sewing through the years, for myself, my home, and now my kids.
What sewing machine do you use now? I also invested in a Bernina serger, it is a 900 DL. It is a great serger and continues to serve me well. I now also have a Bernina Aurora 430, and still have my Bernina 130 (although I have lent it to my sister). I also sew on lots of new Bernina's at Modern Domestic, the 330's mostly, as they are in the classrooms.
What do you most use your machine for? I use my machine for loads of things, from sewing doll clothes, to clothes for myself, a little quilting, home dec projects, what ever inspires me. Most recently I made a little Vogue tunic dress with beautiful Liberty of London fabric, which was dreamy.
What is your 'dream machine'? I think I can happily say that I own my dream machine! I do think that may change when I get to know more about the Bernina 820, which is truly amazing. After I can get over the intimidation of such a sophisticated sewing machine, I bet I will begin to fall in love.
What advice would you give to a beginning sewer looking to invest in a machine? When it comes to investing in your first machine, please do not purchase on from a "big box store." Aside from a very poorly made sewing machine that has mostly plastic and non-durable parts, they are hardly worth maintaining and you get NO support from those stores. Go to a dealership and buy the best you can afford. A well-built sewing machine will last you a very long time if properly maintained, and you can get loads of support from your dealership, including classes on your machine, and tips and help. If you have to wait a little longer to invest, look into layaway, and use a sewing studio for classes meanwhile, so you can learn and sew before you decide on your level of commitment/investment.
Wednesday, January 19, 2011
If you travel with your machine I would say this trolley is a great investment. It is super lightweight and comes in three colors: silver, red and blue. Warning though, it does not fit my Babylock Ellure with the cover on. I can just get it to zip closed. My older machines and new little Bernettes fit just fine. Also, the wheels seem delicate to me, like they are meant for slick airport linoliem floors and not the rocky asphalt I attempted to drag it across in the school parking lot (I ended up carrying it until I got inside). Shop around too: Amazon has it for less than Save Stores did, it just depends on how you like to shop. Personally, I prefer to support my local sewing haunts, even if it means paying a bit more.
Sunday, January 16, 2011
I always made a point to visit the shop when I was in the City. Many of the people I had worked with were still there, and they always invited me into their world of costume magic. My daughter had a chance to visit and she began to look forward to going to the place mommy used to work where she could keep any beads she collected off the floor. One of the most important skills I took away from Matera's was how to sew on their ancient industrial sewing machines. The women who sewed at the shop, known as the 'ladies', were either hand stitchers or machine stitchers. Margarita, one of the machine stitchers, took me under her wing and taught me with patience and expertise how to drive these behemoths. I took this photo of Margarita's sewing machine the last time I visited the shop in New York. She was an expert tutu maker and taught me how to tell jokes in Spanish. I never quite mastered the art of either, but I will say I am more confident sewing tulle than regaling my friends with the 'one about the playa.'
I will miss Matera's and the world sparkle a bit less in it's absence.
Saturday, January 15, 2011
While researching this I discovered the google timeline and found several classified adds from the 1960s and 70s showing that this machine originally retailed for around $300. Not much has changed in fourty years!
Friday, January 14, 2011
Congratulations! And thanks for commenting everyone. I wish I could give all of you machines! In an effort to give everyone a fair and equal chance, I assigned everyone 3 numbers starting with 1 for the last post and continuing in reverse consecutive order up to the number 27. Basically, if your post was first on the list, you got numbers 9, 18, and 27. I used an integer generator at Random.org to chose the lucky winner. I know, I could have drawn a name out of a hat, but this seemed more fair somehow.
And because I am in such a giving mood, there is a runner-up prize which goes to #17, tambouringirl. Please send me a note so I can send you your goodie bag!
Now we have to figure out shipping to the big apple. This was fun. I hope I can do another giveaway soon!
I offered to help her set it up and asked if she had sewn on it recently. I was happy when she replied she had tested it last night because then I knew there was a possibility of it working. I have had students bring in machines that have sat in basements for years. It is never fun to have to tell kids that their machines have to be serviced before they can be used. I hoped tonight that wouldn't be the case. I lifted the machine out of the container, plugged in the presser foot and power cord and it turned on fine. My student assured me she knew how to thread it, so I went to attend to another kid. Then I heard those famous last words, "Michelle, my machine isn't working..." I headed back over to her and sure enough, the machine was on, but it wouldn't sew! I noticed that the bobbin winder was engaged, which could prevent the needle from moving up and down. Typically that can be adjusted by pushing in or tightening the center of the manual wheel, but that was not the case this time. I was stumped! I asked if she has an instruction booklet (I think so, but I don't know where it is) so I decided I needed to sit down until I figured it out. I started investigating the machine: the more I searched, the cooler I realized it was! It crossed my mind that it was a hybrid of some kind from the early '70s and I wrote the model number down so I could research it later.
I still had a mystery to solve. The one clue I had was the bobbin function. It was a drop-in bobbin (on the top by the feed dogs, and not in the front on the neck) and it was a self-winding bobbin design I had seen once before in a vintage machine (I wish I could remember what that one was). I think, there must be something in the bobbin that I can disengage, but I can't figure out what. Then I just go for it. There is a panel of buttons with no information on the top of the machine. I press the first one: nothing (later I figure out it is the reverse button). I press the second one: bingo! It works! Mystery solved.
When I got home I did some research. Turns out the Singer Athena has an interesting place in history. It was introduced in 1975 and was the first electronic sewing machine. If you click on the photo it will take you over to a time line on the singer website. There are some other interesting facts about the machine and free pdfs of the schematics here: Athena 2000. I just love this stuff!
Wednesday, January 12, 2011
When did you learn how to sew? My mother showed me how to hand-sew when I was about 3 years old. I took a sewing class in the eighth grade when I was about 12. In high school I took a couture sewing course outside of school, then got my BFA from Parsons School of Design in Fashion Design. 34 years of experience and I am still learning!
What kind of machine did you first learn to sew on? I don't remember the home machine model at my school but since my mother had an industrial Singer straight stitch, that is the one I used until college.
What machine do you sew on now? I just moved and sold my Italian Necchi A809 which was an amazing machine with speed control. I've had mostly Singers but recently purchased the Bernina 830! as well as a Thompson Mini-Walking foot machine, a 900 Singer industrial straight stitch and a new Janome 111ODX serger. I had major issues with my Singer Serger 14SH654 because I used it frequently and used many different types of material. Many home machines are not meant to be used on a constant basis thus my need to use industrials now.
What is your 'dream machine?' Any older model Bernina made in Switzerland, Italian made Necchi, and Juki industrial machines: including a coverstitch, blind-hem, and serger.
What advice would you give to a beginning sewer looking to invest in their first machine? I am not a fan of computerized machines because I am used to the mechanical and electrical models. I would advise getting a machine that has the basic stitches: straight, zig-zag, buttonholer, blind hem and if you plan on using stretch fabrics, a stretch stitch, though using a zig-zag stitch will work perfectly fine. You really don't need to have more than those stitches unless you are planning to do a lot of embroidery.
Personally I prefer to buy used older models from brands I trust such as Bernina and Necchi. Nowadays more plastic parts are put inside the machines and they can break apart more quickly than one that has metal parts. It's okay to buy a used machine that is trusted than a pretty new one with tons of stitches you will probably never use.
If you choose to go to a shop to buy one, lift it! If it's heavy generally there are more metal parts than plastic. Check and see where it is made. Talk to the salesperson and tell them what you want to sew. Do your own research as well: Jot down model numbers, go home and check on-line for reviews. Bring swatches of the types of fabric you want to sew.
Sewing machines are so personal, funny, isn't it? I am going to start a series of interviews with some sewers I know about what machines they use and why starting tomorrow.
Tuesday, January 11, 2011
The one I have is probably 10 years old, maybe less. The Riccar 1570 is still made although I have not been able to find out how much it would cost to buy it new (it was given to me, so I'm passing that good will on). Also, I have not have it serviced, but I have used it. I would suggest getting it serviced and oiled and all that.
Speaking of oil, I did learn something new today. I took out the first of the two Bernettes and was in the process of checking all the parts and I noticed I had some oil on my hands. When I opened up the little parts case the oil cap from the oil container had not been replaced tight enough at the factory and it had spilled everywhere. Yikes. I called the store where I bought the machines and they suggested to clean it up with Simple Green. Oh, that's easy! I didn't have any but I did have some Trader Zen, which did the trick.
Winners will be announced Friday, January 14th (if I get those ten comments!)
Monday, January 10, 2011
Sunday, January 9, 2011
I have been shopping for a new sewing machine to use for my classes. I have been using ancient Singer and Kenmore machines, which work fine, but I have decided to modernize and teach my young students on something they may be more likely to feel confident using. The one feature I really find does this is the speed control. Several years ago I invested in my first computerized sewing machine and it had this feature. So which is the best machine to get? I want a machine that is simple (not too many stitches and NO embroidery features), has a speed control, is lightweight, and cost around $250.
The adventure begins:
Computerized vs. Electronic/Mechanical
Well, who knew this would be so complicated! All of my machines are electric, and I thought all new machines were computerized. Not so. A computerized machine may be a low-end model or the most expensive embroidery machine. An electronic machine may be high end as well. As an experienced sewer, but inexperienced buyer, I found this all very complicated to navigate.
The difference between Mechanical Machines and Electronic Machines is basically semantics. CLARIFICATION (added 1/11/11): mechanical machines have no electronic guts - they have gears and levers and pullies and such. I was thinking electronic meant you plugged it into an electrical outlet. Silly me! Electronic machines are different from a basic mechanical. I'll work up a post about this with better information... Most dealers use the term electronic, but once in a while you will hear some one say mechanical. These terms are used intermittently in descriptions as well. This was terribly confusing to me at first. I asked many experienced sewers I knew what the difference was and it became a giant guessing game. Here is what I've decided: A mechanical machine refers to older or vintage machines. The user has to adjust the settings, the tension and stitch length. It is more likely that the speed in which you sew using the presser foot will affect these settings: I have had this happen a million times. Why are my stitches suddenly so small when I sew fast - aha! This is why. Mechanical machines are also heavy. This is one of the reasons I want to get rid of mine. Carrying them every week to class is starting to drive me crazy.
Electronic Machines are mechanical machines. This term appears to describe machines beginning in the 1970s. There is a technical description of the mechanics of an electronic machine vs a mechanical machine on The Ultimate Sew and Vac web site. This did not make it easier to understand for me, but it did explain things. Most dealers use both terms and I have come to the conclusion that they basically mean it is not computerized. The ones I like so far are the Husqvarna/Viking 118 and the Singer CG-590. There is a significant price difference - the Viking is $450 at my local shop and I can get the Singer online for $300.
Computerized machines have a microprocessor. These are the ones that have led screens and tons of fancy stitches. The ones I don't need, except it is not easy to find an inexpensive Electronic machine with the speed control feature. The main thing to know is that the lower end machines are not built with a protective interior case. These are basically cheaply made and intended for the sewer who makes a project once or twice a year. Not for me. A middle-end (is there such a thing? There must be if there are low and high ends!) are machines like Janome Magnolia 7330 and the Brother Innov-is 40 . Both of these machines run around $350-400 and neither are aesthetically appealing to me (I wish I could just get over that... but yuck!)
So that is where I am at right now. I had hoped to buy two machines for around $250 each, but I think that may be impossible. We'll see!