Interview with Amy Karol

Amy Karol is the creative guru behind the blog Angry Chicken and has written two sewing books, Bend-the-Rules Sewing: The Essential Guide to a Whole New Way to Sew (Potter Craft 2oo7) and Bend the Rules with Fabric: Fun Sewing Porjects with Stencils, Stamps, Dye, Photo Transfers, Silk Screening, and More (Potter Craft 2oo9). She has sewn everything from wedding dresses to quilts and has made short films, recorded songs, and created monoprints and fine art paintings. Amy's artwork, textiles, notecards and patterns are for sale on her online shop KingPod. She lives in Portland, Oregon (her hometown) with her husband and their three daughters.

When did you learn how to sew?

I don't exactly remember how old I was—5 or 6? It was always out and set up, I think. My mom taught me. We did a mix of hand sewing and regular sewing, but mostly I was just watching her and learning the process and then trying myself by jamming up her machine over and over again.

What kind of machine did you first learn to sew on?

I learned on my mom's machine, which she no longer has, but has since given to her sister. It was a awesome 1970s (maybe earlier) all metal bright orange Husqvarna. I love it and it was so strong! I must have jammed that machine up 1000 times and it still worked great. When I graduated from highschool my mom and dad said they would buy me a computer to take to college or a sewing machine. I went for the machine, and of course I chose a Husqvarna and now it's the machine my girls use.

What machine do you sew on now?

Now I have a Bernina Artista 165, which is the second machine I have ever owned. I love it. I also use a Baby Lock Imagine serger, which has been nothing short of life changing.

What do you most use your machine for?

Sewing! Ha! Seriously, everything, right? I mean it's perfect for both crafts and garment sewing. I do a love of free-motion work on it as well and it does a great job with that.

What is your 'dream machine?'

I'm pretty well set up right now. I don't have a collection of machines (nor do I want one) but my mom has a vintage featherweight, which I would love to try, it's popular among quilters for it's wonderful straight stitch, and I'd love an old school Pfaff machine, like what I used when working in college in the costume shop, again, another straight stitch machine. Purely for nostalgic reasons.

What advice would you give to a beginning sewer looking to invest in their first machine?

I actually have a bit about this in my fist book, Bend-the-Rules Sewing . . . I'd say try to get the best one you can afford and buy from a dealer from an independent shop, not a big chain store. Also, these smaller shops have classes usually for free—take them. It' makes all the difference in the world. And really be honest about what you think you might sew and try to keep it simple. You can always trade-in if you later want a machine with all the crazy bells and whistles, but starting out, simple is best.

Interview with Lupine Swanson of Modern Domestic

Lupine Swanson is an owner/partner of Modern Domestic sewing studio on NE Alberta in the bustling arts district. She has been sewing and crafting since childhood and really began sewing just after college 15 years ago, then became a Sales Rep for Petersen-Arne, a large wholesale distributor of sewing and craft supplies out of Eugene. There she had the opportunity to travel in the greater Portland Metro area and spent time in all sorts of stores, big and small. After having her first child, Lupine switched to teaching sewing at Bolt Neighborhood Fabric Boutique which proved to be a wonderful change, and perfect for the first years of her family and second child. Eventually, she assisted Gina, the owner of Bolt and future partner at MD, on starting the bolt neighborhood blog. Last March, Lupine opened Modern Domestic with Gina of Bolt, and Michelle, a long time friend and sewing and knitting inspiration.

When did you learn how to sew & what kind of machine did you first learn to sew on? I began sewing as a child on my grandmothers hand-me-down Singer. It was horrible. If I had access to a better machine, I would have been sewing much earlier. There were constant problems with tension, unthreading and more. It made sewing by hand easier than figuring out the machine, which really stalled my learning. After college, I borrowed a friends simple and inexpensive machine. After a little less (just a little mind you) frustration, I started taking some classes. I wanted to become a better sewer, and although I didn't know much, I knew there was a whole lot for me to learn.

I began taking classes in a great shop in Eugene, 27th Street Fabrics. I quickly discovered that Bernina's were truly wonderful machines, and bought one. I am the type of person who feels that if I am going to invest in something, a tool or learning experience, I would rather have a good one that I can depend on to work ever time and make learning fun. I can not tell you what a difference that machine made to my skills. That lovely Bernina 130, a handful of classes, and I was sewing for years and years! There wasn't access to great fabric or inspiring patterns, but I made due and mostly just kept sewing through the years, for myself, my home, and now my kids.

What sewing machine do you use now? I also invested in a Bernina serger, it is a 900 DL. It is a great serger and continues to serve me well. I now also have a Bernina Aurora 430, and still have my Bernina 130 (although I have lent it to my sister). I also sew on lots of new Bernina's at Modern Domestic, the 330's mostly, as they are in the classrooms.

What do you most use your machine for? I use my machine for loads of things, from sewing doll clothes, to clothes for myself, a little quilting, home dec projects, what ever inspires me. Most recently I made a little Vogue tunic dress with beautiful Liberty of London fabric, which was dreamy.

What is your 'dream machine'? I think I can happily say that I own my dream machine! I do think that may change when I get to know more about the Bernina 820, which is truly amazing. After I can get over the intimidation of such a sophisticated sewing machine, I bet I will begin to fall in love.

What advice would you give to a beginning sewer looking to invest in a machine? When it comes to investing in your first machine, please do not purchase on from a "big box store." Aside from a very poorly made sewing machine that has mostly plastic and non-durable parts, they are hardly worth maintaining and you get NO support from those stores. Go to a dealership and buy the best you can afford. A well-built sewing machine will last you a very long time if properly maintained, and you can get loads of support from your dealership, including classes on your machine, and tips and help. If you have to wait a little longer to invest, look into layaway, and use a sewing studio for classes meanwhile, so you can learn and sew before you decide on your level of commitment/investment.

Lupines Links:

berninausa.com

http://www.boltneighborhood.com/

http://www.boltfabricboutique.com/

Interview with Miyong Noh of Idyeology

Miyong Noh is the owner of Idyeology, a dye shop located in Portland, Oregon and designer of limited edition burner-inspired apparel. She worked as head dyer and color specialist for Gene Mignolia in NYC for twenty years and spent three years as the dyer for the New York City Ballet Costume shop. She earned her BFA from Parsons School of Design in Fashion and is a fine artist specializing in wood carving paintings, paper mache masks, and wearable art. She has taught adults how to sew and craft for the past five years in New York City and plans to do so again in Portland.

When did you learn how to sew? My mother showed me how to hand-sew when I was about 3 years old. I took a sewing class in the eighth grade when I was about 12. In high school I took a couture sewing course outside of school, then got my BFA from Parsons School of Design in Fashion Design. 34 years of experience and I am still learning!

What kind of machine did you first learn to sew on? I don't remember the home machine model at my school but since my mother had an industrial Singer straight stitch, that is the one I used until college.

What machine do you sew on now? I just moved and sold my Italian Necchi A809 which was an amazing machine with speed control. I've had mostly Singers but recently purchased the Bernina 830! as well as a Thompson Mini-Walking foot machine, a 900 Singer industrial straight stitch and a new Janome 111ODX serger. I had major issues with my Singer Serger 14SH654 because I used it frequently and used many different types of material. Many home machines are not meant to be used on a constant basis thus my need to use industrials now.

What is your 'dream machine?' Any older model Bernina made in Switzerland, Italian made Necchi, and Juki industrial machines: including a coverstitch, blind-hem, and serger.

What advice would you give to a beginning sewer looking to invest in their first machine? I am not a fan of computerized machines because I am used to the mechanical and electrical models. I would advise getting a machine that has the basic stitches: straight, zig-zag, buttonholer, blind hem and if you plan on using stretch fabrics, a stretch stitch, though using a zig-zag stitch will work perfectly fine. You really don't need to have more than those stitches unless you are planning to do a lot of embroidery.

Personally I prefer to buy used older models from brands I trust such as Bernina and Necchi. Nowadays more plastic parts are put inside the machines and they can break apart more quickly than one that has metal parts. It's okay to buy a used machine that is trusted than a pretty new one with tons of stitches you will probably never use.

If you choose to go to a shop to buy one, lift it! If it's heavy generally there are more metal parts than plastic. Check and see where it is made. Talk to the salesperson and tell them what you want to sew. Do your own research as well: Jot down model numbers, go home and check on-line for reviews. Bring swatches of the types of fabric you want to sew.